This is the food most of us grew up on and then stopped noticing. These 30 guides cover nasi lemak and nasi padang, laksa and lontong, nasi goreng, beef noodles and fish soup, kambing soup, carrot cake, otah, bee hoon and porridge, kaya toast and the kaya itself, plus Peranakan and Nyonya kitchens and the kueh that goes with them – kueh lapis, kueh bangkit, ondeh ondeh. Some of these dishes have a version everybody agrees on and a version that starts arguments; the guides list the places and let you settle it yourself. Addresses, hours where the stall keeps its own, and what to order first. Go early – the good ones sell out.

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